14th Aug, 2007

Drukgyal Dzong: Tunnels and wells discovered after 56 years

Ap Kalay looking down one of the newly discovered wells Ap Kalay was ten years old when he saw the Paro Drugyel dzong razed to the ground in an inferno in 1951. Since then growing up he had often played in its courtyard and knew pretty much every nook and corner of the dzong. Or so he thought. He was the unofficial caretaker who took pleasure in explaining to visitors the colourful history of the dzong long in ruins but which he worshipped. Nothing, however, had prepared him what came next.

Three months back the Paro dzongkhag had initiated a cleaning campaign at the ruins. It was neglected and was growing into a picnicker’s spot who littered the place with papers, plastics and pet bottles.

Ap Kalay and a group of people were cleaning a well, which the merry makers had trashed, when they noticed an opening in between a thicket of bushes and thorns. They cleared the undergrowth and came upon a passage that disappeared into a dark tunnel. Curious they cut their way through.

“The passage lead us to three different wells which we thought was long destroyed by the fire,” said Ap Kalay. “I was enthused beyond words.”

The discovery has also excited the Paro residents. They throng the ruins to see the tunnels and the wells. They had heard about the dzong’s secret passages that lead to water sources, which were used during war, but never occurred to them that they would one day see it.

The entrance to the wells is from the main tower’s north side. The tunnels are about six feet tall and big enough to fit three men at a time, side by side. The passage leads down to two wells, one to the left and other to the right.

One of it still carries water. They are built with slabs of neatly cut stones with fresh little shrubs growing on it.

“It is an interesting discovery because with this one can come to know the defence strategies of our soldiers at the time, and also understand some of the earlier architecture,” said a Paro resident who took his family last week to see the tunnels and the wells.

Paro Dzongrab Namgay Rinchen said they were seeking experts to measure the passage and to study the discovery.

“We are also working towards preserving the dzong,” said Paro Dzongrab Namgay Rinchen. The tourism department has contributed Nu 300,000 for the purpose, he said.

The Drugyel dzong (the fortress of the victorious Drukpas) was built in 1646 by Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal to celebrate victory over Tibetan invading forces and also to curtail further invasions from the enemy.

It served as barracks and arms storage for the Bhutanese army. Early records showed that three battles were fought against the Tibetans in Paro of which one took place inside the Drugyel dzong. The dzong had a false entrance to lure invaders into a closed courtyard. The invaders charged inside only to encounter a carefully planned ambush. Many enemies, it is said, met their deaths here.

Ap Kalay, who is 66, is now the official caretaker of the dzong appointed by the Paro dzongkhag. The locals, including him, have already named two of the wells discovered as Gochonang and Simjong after the villages closest to the wells. Source: Kuenselonline

Leave a response

Your response: