27 December 2008 to 9 January 2009
Jos Latour & Cedric Lepelblad
The Netherlands
Our adventure started in Spring 2008 when we decided to go to Bhutan. The challenge was to find a reliable travel agent that would sense and fulfil our needs. We contacted Bhutan Majestic Travel (BMT) and immediately we had excellent email communications with the director Namgay Dorji and the general manager Tashi Phuntsho. Both of them gave us a warm welcome and a feeling of trust. Together we compose a 14 days private tour based on our requests and their professional experiences.
On 27 December 2008 we flew comfortably with Druk-Air to Bhutan. On the way we saw the impressive Mount Everest and Mount Kanchengungha. They were so close we could almost see the expeditions (bring your binoculars!). The descent to Paro International Airport was exciting, flying through valleys and seeing Paro Dzong and the National Museum on mountain riffs. The airstrip is virtually situated between two walls. A spectacular flight!
| Mount Everest
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Paro Valley
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At the airport we were warmly welcomed by Tashi and Migma, our guide and driver. The sunny afternoon was the perfect beginning of an unforgettable holiday where every single day was a highlight. We went directly to the National Museum located in a Watch Tower built in the 17th century. A perfect choice to get an overview of the history of the Kingdom of Bhuta
| Paro Rinpung Dzong |
National Museum
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The second day was dedicated to the famous Taktsang Temples and Monastery (Tiger’s Nest), located at 2900 meters. Tashi had arranged lunch at a lovely cafeteria halfway the climb with spectacular views of the Taktsang. The last part of the hike was superb. Every curve of the trek had wonderful view on the most important place of Bhutan.
| Â Taktsang: Tiger’s Nest
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Taktsang Tiger’s Nest
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Next day we made our way to the capital Thimphu. A lovely city where we admire the original Bhutanese architecture, stroll around the shops, enjoyed the cosy street life, and visited the Memorial Stupa and other cultural sites.
| Buddhist Nun
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King Khesar
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Day four we stayed in Thimphu as there were so many things to see and to do. For example, seeing the Takins, Bhutan’s national animal. These funny looking creatures, looks like a cow with a goat’s head. At the end of the day we visited the Thimphu Dzong. Very quiet, impressive and serene.
| Takin: National Animal
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Archery: National Sport
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On the last day of 2008 we drove to Phunaka crossing the Dochula Pass at 3150 meters. We did not mind the clouds and snow at the Pass. The clouds gliding through the impressive 108 Stupas became an mysterious scene. After our descend to 1300 meters, bright sunshine welcomed us in Phunaka with breathtaking views of the Phunaka Dzong built in 1637. We celebrated New Years Eve together with Tashi and Migma and their friends.
| 108 Stupas at DochulaÂ
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Buddhist Monks
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Day six started relaxed at around 10 AM. On purpose since our bodies needed to recuperate from last night’s celebrations. We had a long drive to the East of Bhutan to the province of Bumthang, crossing various Passes over 3000 meters.
| Life on Road
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Punakha Town
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After a good sleep in a lovely situated resort with spacious wooden rooms and a “buckary” (a traditional wooden stove) to keep us warm, we went to several historical places. The interesting Jakar Dzong, dated 1646, was strategically situated overlooking the valley. Also very impressive was an ancient temple built in 8th century.
| Kurjey Holy Water
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Chanting Mantra
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Day eight was a cloudless day and a local holiday in the province Bumthang. We went to Ura valley. The remote village of Ura is situated in one of the most beautiful valleys we have seen on our trip. In and around the village the people were socializing via their traditional sports. We were lucky to see the Archery, the National sport of Bhutan, shooting with traditional bamboo arches. Also, children and adults were playing traditional dart games. On the way back Tashi and Migma arranged a picnic. We found a wonderful spot with stunning views of the highest and unclimbed mountain of Bhutan, the Gangkar Puensum with 7570 meters. This was a picnic to treasure for life.
| Famous Dart Game
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Gangkar Puensum
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The next day was time to leave Bumthang and make our way to Trongsa for the Trongsa Tshechu (Trongsa Festival). This 5-day festival took place from 4-8 January 2009. The first day of this festival was in fact the full dress rehearsals and we manage to see the dances in the late afternoon.
| Cedric with Monks
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Jos at Yotongla
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Day ten and eleven were dedicated to the Trongsa Tshechu. Tashi explained us in detail the underlying philosophy of the festival and all the different consecutive dances. Therefore we were able to follow closely the dances and understand every episode. The Festival took place on one of the two court yards of the Trongsa Dzong. With a few hundred local visitors and a handful foreigners it became another highlight of our trip. The dancers were dressed with ancient masks, graceful decorated hats, and colourful dresses. One of the most important and impressive dance was the entry of the second Buddha guide by the Disciplinary Master of the Trongsa Dzong.
| Trongsa Festival
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Black Hat Dance
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| Witnessing Tshechu
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Guru Rimpoche Dance
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In between the dances, we visited the newly opened museum in the Trongsa Watch Tower. A fantastic small museum showcasing the history of Bhutan in particular the narration of Buddhism within the Bhutanese society up till present.
Day twelve marked our return towards Western Bhutan. We were ready for another drive along the winding roads of the National East-West Highway. No matter if you take the same route back, the scenery gives you plenty of new spectacular views. Several interesting stops made this journey very pleasant. For example the Royal Botanic Gardens, a lunch stop close to a large Nepalese Stupa, and again crossing Passes with stunning views. We also had time to make a detour to another wide valley to spot the Black-necked Crane. With a world-wide population of less than 6000, these large birds are spiritual creatures for the local people. After crossing a Pass into this valley a herd of Yaks blocked our road. Some minutes later, we saw about one hundred of these exceptional looking cranes. Some cranes gracefully flew above us and landing nearby. We had an overnight stop at a resort close to Wangdue. Situated in a gorge and next to a wild mountain river, this resort was a tranquil place we actually did not want to leave.
| Children at Pass
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Black Necked Cranes
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The following day we visited the Wangdue Dzong, another master piece from the 17th century, with dazzling views on green rice fields and mountain villages. During a lunch stop, the clear weather allowed us to see the impressive Himalayan peaks. Back at the Pass with the 108 Stupas, the view was definitely different than last time. The Stupas stand glorious in the sun and under blue skies. In Thimphu we dropped by at Bhutan Majestic Travel to thank Namgay Dorji and Tashi for their excellent planning of our trip. Continuing to Paro we stopped on the road to see a group of monkeys (Langurs) coming down the mountains to go to the river for a drink.
| Himalayan View
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Wangdue Dzong
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Day fourteen, countdown of our time in Bhutan. In the morning we had time enough to visit the Paro Dzong. In order to keep the spirit with us, we bought a Dorje, a ritual tool which is symbolically used in Bhutan. Flying out of the Kingdom of Bhutan is as spectacular as flying in. After touching Mount Everest once again, we waived to Bhutan and the Himalayas. We will miss the tranquillity and the serenity of the country and the company of our friends.
| Mandala
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Good Bye Bhutan
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In summary, our stay in Bhutan was a wonderful experience. The accommodations were carefully selected by BMT and the standard of all hotels and resorts were beyond our expectations. We were privileged to stay at the best rooms, suites or bungalows with spectacular views. The restaurants served always a wide variety of the best Bhutanese cuisine. And remember, the green chillies are not a spice in Bhutan, they are vegetables often combined with a cheese sauce. No matter what kind of weather you have, every day is a feast in Bhutan regardless the weather conditions. Tashi, you are a walking history book of Bhutan. Your (background) stories made our trip a truly lived experience. Migma, for us you are the national automobile hero. Your driving skills made us feel safe and comfortable to enjoy the scenery. Namgay Dorji and Tashi Phuntsho from Bhutan Majestic Travel, thank you very much for your professional advice.
We realize that we have not seen all of Bhutan such as the rhododendron in bloom, the green grass, the glittering rice fields, or other magnificent valleys. In this case, the title of our next tour will be “Bhutan Revisited”. We were very privileged to experience Bhutan the way we did!
